Saturday 21st December
Packed and in the RV towing jeep with the bikes and Peter’s
bikes, us and Lance in the RV, at 9am. Made good progress to Barstow. Said
farewell to Peter and Monique and Lance. A bit sad to say goodbye. Bit of a
shock being back in Barstow but were able to check into the California Inn
early. This left time to walk the streets of Barstow to the Motherlode Route 66
and train museums. The train museum wasn’t open but still lots of cool trains
inside. Lovely sunny day and walk back, though very rundown and obviously very
poor in parts.
Back to the California Inn to eat noodles and pack for
returning to the bicycle life…
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| Peter and Hugh on tandem |
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| Farewell dinner with Peter and Monique |
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| Last walk with Lance in Vegas |
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| Departing Alfano Ct with tandems on back of towed jeep |
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| Huge solar farm out of Vegas |
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| Lancie |
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| Farewell at Barstow |
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| Peter and Monique departing for Morro Bay |
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| Barstow mural |
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| Train Museum, Barstow |
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| Route 66 Museum, Barstow |
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| Union Pacific train pulling into Barstow |
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| Mural of the Mormon Trail |
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| Detail from Barstow mural |
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| Harvey House, Barstow |
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| Historical Marker at Harvey House |
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| Trains at Bastow |
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| John contemplating alternative transport |
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| Barstow landscape |
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| Train and Harvey House |
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| Main street, Barstow |
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| Largest and flashest building in Barstow |
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| Route 66 mural |
Sunday 22nd December
Barstow to Victorville/ Hesperia 73kms
Breakfast at the hotel and then away at 9am back down the 10kms of Barstow to Helendale. Stopped for a bit there and then just down the road found Molly’s Kitchen where we had a coffee. We were leaving when we saw our old desert friend Pete from the Private Property Farm and I heard him say to his friend – “They came up onto my farm…” Gave a friendly wave and then waved to us from his truck as well. Too bizarre!
Continued on, reaching the Victorville City Limits quite early. Road flatter after Helensdale but in terrible condition considering it is the famed Route 66! Long uphill ride through Victorville and pleased to get here at 3.45pm to have lunch and go to the loo!
Microwaved nachos for tea. Bit of a Santa movie and bed. Quite a strenuous hilly day but good to make progress again.
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| Lucy outside the California Inn, Barstow |
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| Just outside Barstow |
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| Departing Barstow |
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| Random fake saloon on side of road |
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| Glass tower artwork near Helendale |
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| Break at mini-market in Helendale |
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| Route 66 marker at Country Cafe |
Monday 23rd December
Victorville/ Hesperia to Redlands 72kms
Departed Victorvilleat 8.30am. Gorgeous day and made quick
work of the Cajon Summit at 4259 feet. Managed to stay off the Interstate
Highway 15 until the summit where there was no alternative. Several CHP
officers passed us but as Lucy said, they were more interested in pulling over
cars and ignored us. Exited the highway again at the bottom of the hill and
stopped for lunch to recover from the busy pre-Christmas highway.
Wound down the valley pretty quickly and reached San Bernadino
which was beautiful after many barren desert towns – it had lawns and grass and
gardens and Christmas decorations. Made really quick progress through the city
but a long hot way out to Redlands and pleased to get to the Good Nite Inn at
3pm. Had a burger for dinner around the road and watched the movie Home Alone.
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| Climbing the Cajon Pass |
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| Entering the I-15 Highway at Cajon Pass |
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| Steep descent |
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| Looking towards San Bernadino |
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| Bridget and Lucy ahead on the way down Cajon Pass |
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| Lunch after exit from highway |
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| Entering San Bernadino |
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| Entering San Bernadino |
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| San Bernadino Baseball Park |
Tuesday 24th December
Redlands to Palm Springs 90kms
Big day! Beautiful Christmas Eve morning. Got away at 8am!
There turned out to be a big hill out of Redlands which took some getting up.
Met a really nice guy called Hugh who biked up with John and we talked at the top
of the hill. Descended into Yucaipa and back up a very steep hill out of there.
Stopped at Starbucks to recover which was bursting with Christmas Eve coffee
drinkers but a welcome break from the relentlessness of the hills.
More hills followed up throughCherry Valley and Beaumont to
Banning. Very pleased to get there and had lunch in a park at the end of town.
Went up to the Morongo Indian Reservation to bike up Morongo Rd but were
refused access at a checkpoint so went down to the Highway 10 freeway and jumped
on it regardless of the Bikes Prohibited sign. It was huge and busy but raced
down it for three miles and got off it again.
Further on it flattened
but became windy – in the face unfortunately. Then a car pulled over and
it was Hugh from the morning – and his wife Ann – who had been amazingly kind
and brought us biscuits and a card and present which was just so humbling to be
the recipients of such an act of random kindness. It really was heartwarming
and appreciated so much.
Continued on to the Palm Springs turnoff and raced the last
twelve miles down to Palm Springs. Bit of a sand blast from the desert in the
wind as we turned the corner. Made good time right down North Canyon Rd and
found the Azure Sky Resort and were here about 4pm. Went out to the supermarket
and stocked up on lots of nice food as
such a novelty to have an oven and a kitchen. Even had potatoes!
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| Looking back at Redlands |
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View of dam above Redlands
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| Lunch in Banning |
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| Santa in Banning |
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| Wind farm near Palm Springs turnoff |
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| Sonny Bono Memorial Freeway |
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| Palm Springs Highway |
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| River Valley |
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| Christmas Eve dinner at Palm Springs |
Wednesday 25th
December
Christmas Day in Palm Springs
Swim, Brunch, Walk, Lucy and Hugh’s Christmas Concert, Another Swim, Drink by the Pool, Dinner, Movie.
Gorgeous happy day.
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| Swim |
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| Hugh and Lucy |
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| Christmas Brunch |
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| Walk |
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| John relaxing |
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| Hugh as Santa in Christmas play |
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| Move over Frank Sinatra |
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| Palm in Palm Springs |
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| Walking in Palm Springs |
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| Sun going down behind palms |
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| Christmas Night dinner as John Wayne movie ends |
Thursday 26th December
Palm Springs to Yucca Valley.
Boxing Day. The children and I had a spa and then ate lots
of leftover Christmas food for breakfast. Got away about 10.30am and made good
uphill progress to the Palm Springs intersection with Highway 10. Hot.
Hills followed – hillier as we progressed, culminating in a
gorgy pass through the hills into Morongo Valley. Very steep and windy and hard
going. Found an open pub so had a drink – it was cool actually. Then turned the
corner to find a humungous hill up to Yucca Valley which took an hour or more
to get up. Whacked by the time we got here to Super 8. Got groceries and had
ham sandwiches for dinner.
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| Hugh at apartment |
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| Wind farm by Desert Hot Springs |
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| Joshua trees appearing |
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| Welcome drink stop before Yucca Valley |
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| Hugh and Johnand mechanical bull |
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| What we saw after the drink stop! |
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| Attacking the hill |
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| Still attacking the hill an hour later |
Friday 27th December
Yucca Valley to Ryans, Hall of Horrors, Joshua Tree National
Park.
Left Yucca Valley after a big breakfast and a trip to
Walmart for gas. Arrived quickly to Joshua Tree six miles down the road. Did
laundry at the laundromat and went to the café and had a yummy early lunch
while we waited for the laundry. Went to the very crowded Visitor Centre where
the woman was very offhand about the likelihood of camping. Bought lots of
water – about eight litres to go with the three we had – and set off – uphill
five miles to the park entrance.
The road evened off a bit but was still steadily uphill to
Ryans Campground at about 4000 feet. Yucca Valley had been 3270 feet. The camp
was full so we were unsure what to do so rode on a ways and came to the Hall of
Horrors climbing area which was beautiful with large rocks which we figured we
could camp between. There was a toilet there which made things easy and camped
happily at about 4.30pm as the sun set. It really was glorious. Darkness fell
quickly and so did the cold so we went to bed.
We were startled when somebody arrived about 8pm and there
were voices outside the tent. Ourhearts almost beat out of our chests though
the kids slept through it. It seemed that it was just some guys going for a
walk and they went away again. Freezing cold night and we were all a bit cold –
or a lot cold – and the silence was so absolute that it was eerie. Just not a
sound of anything.
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| Entering Joshua Tree Village |
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| Brunch at Joshua Tree while laundry being done |
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| Riding up through Joshua Tree Village |
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| Entering Joshua Tree National Park |
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| In the Park |
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| First rocks |
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| Campsite in Hall of Horrors, Joshua Tree National Park |
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| Rocks above campsite |
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| Lucy and Hugh |
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| Hugh climbing above campsite |
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| Looking for rattlesnakes... |
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| Sunset |
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| Joshua tree skyline |
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| Red rock at sunset |
Saturday 28th December
Ryans, Hall of Horrors to Cottonwood Springs, Joshua Tree
National Park 65kms
We had breakfast early and the sun came up which helped our
freezing state tremendously. Climbers arrived after we had packed up and we
went for a short walk before getting away at 10am toward Jumbo Rocks and
beyond. Arrived quickly to Sheep pass and thenhad a biscuit break at Jumbo Rock
and climbed on the rocks a bit. Huge descent from there to the 29 Palms turnoff
and then a surprise huge uphill to get over into the basin. Another massive
descent right down to the gorgeous cactus garden where we had a break and
carried on. Met some nice people from Nashville.
Long ride across the desert basin and had lunch sitting on
the gutter of an exhibit pullover. Then headed up the hill – only it turned out
to be a massive long strenuous climb all the way to Cottonwood – and we were
worried about time to get to the Visitor Centre to ask about camping. 4pm when
we arrived there and we were absolutely whacked from the heat and the hills.
There was a lovely ranger there and she directed us to the gorgeous campsite
where immediately we saw a place for us. Fabulous!
Had a lovely evening with water and a lovely view and a
clear starry night. Went to bed early since no firewood there. Cold again and a
bit Desert Storm when a strong wind came up, but better prepared for the cold
than the night before.
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| Walk near campsite, Hall of Horrors |
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| Approaching Jumbo Rocks |
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| Break at Jumbo Rocks |
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| Skull Rock |
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| Looking across at Jumbo Rocks |
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| Hugh at top before ominous descent |
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| Large wash valley |
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| Ocotillo trees |
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| Chola Cactus Garden |
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| Cholla Cactus Garden |
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| Lucy at Cottonwood Campground |
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| Sunset at Cottonwood |
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| Last light at campsite |
Sunday 29th December
Cottonwood Springs to Salton Sea Recreation Area State Park
65kms
A spectacular descent from Cottonwood Springs to Box Canyon
Rd and through to Mecca. Huge flash flooding area with mudstone canyonwith many
layers of rock – amazing and very beautiful in the sun. Amazing descent with a tail
wind. Arrived to a Mexican supermarket/ garage which was an experience but
bought yummy cake there and had it further down the road under date palms.
Gorgeous once we got to the lakeside but very deserted and
lots of evidence of former glory before hurricanes hit in 1970. Really amazing
to see green and birds after so much time in the desert.
Arrived to the State Park Campground to find there was
limited camping further on and none in Bombay Beach where we were supposed to
go. Didn’t panic and decided to cut our losses and stay at the lovely
campground there. And it really was. Beachfront sites, icecreams at the camp
shop and a really interesting Visitor Centre – and the birds! Amazing flocks of
white pelicans and gorgeous terns and heron and all sorts of magnificent birds.
Amazing after being in the desert so long.
And we had a campfire and it was glorious and a lovely
sunset and evening.
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| Windy morning at Cottonwood Campground |
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| Box Canyon |
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| Box Canyon flash flood area |
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Winding down Box Canyon
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| Ancient tilted rock walls above |
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| All downhill - great! |
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| Reaching incredible green near Mecca |
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| First glimpse of the Salton Sea and water! |
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| Date palms near the Salton Sea |
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| Our campsite at Salton Sea State Park Campground |
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| Sunset over the Salton Sea |
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| Beachfront at the Salton Sea State Park Campground |
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| Birds in formation at sunset |
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| Last light over desert hills |
Monday 30th December
Salton Sea Recreation Area to Westmorland 90kms
Made 50 flat kms to Niland before lunch so stopped at the Buckshot Diner for lunch which was very traditional Mexican but we had a nice
lunch there and got talking to a homeless horseman afterwards. Lots of evidence
of abandoned businesses and houses from the hurricanes all along the way.
Carried on after lunch through large vegetable fields, arriving to Westmorland
about 4pm. Had a spa later on and a quiet night. Everyone tired.
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| Sunrise at the campsite |
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| Cycling around the Salton Sea |
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| Deserted land at Salton Sea eastern edge |
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| Endless straight flat road |
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| Road to Nowhere |
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| Buckshot Diner, Niland |
Tuesday 31st December
Westmorland to Leaping Lizard RV Park, Ocotillo Wells 55kms
Had breakfast at the hotel and grabbed some rudimentary
groceries from the Mexican convenience store before heading up the flat busy
road/ highway to the Highway 78 turnoff.
Followed the 78 into the sandy desert and stopped for lunch under a
single willow tree tree that we found. Lots of trail bikes and ATVs ripping
around the desert. A border control vehicle came up grooming the sand in the
desert to pick up trails of footprints and we struggled to understand how
anyone could be so desperate as to cross the desert as it was pretty hot even
in late December! Amazing to think people travel for three days and then get
caught.
Travelled on in hot desert until finally reaching Ocotillo
Wells and finding the RV park – and the lady Deborah was lovely and we settled
into the caravan/ trailer called Dennis which was really cool and retro. SO
relaxing. Sat and recovered from the hot ride, had a cup of tea and later made
dinner.
At 8pm we went over to the New Year’s Eve Party outside by
the office and we had no expectations but met some great people and had a
really good time and ended up staying until midnight and then went around the
camp with noisemakers having a blast. It was such a great time and great to
find lovely people. Martin and his partner, Sherry and Mike from San Diego, a
90 year old called Ernie running across the States, Donna and her husband from
Alberta, Canada and Deborah and her husband and a lady called Star, and a nice
guy from LA. Really had a great time.
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| Highway out of Westmorland |
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| Highway 78 to OcotilloWells |
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| ATV dust rising in the distance, Ocotillo Wells State Park Vehicular Recreation Area |
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| Bikes by the highway at lunch stop with Border Patrol sand-grooming |
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| Lunch stop |
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| Dennis - our home away from home for New Year |
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| Hugh relaxing and looking forward to 2014 |
Wednesday 1st January
Leaping Lizard RV Park to Tamarisk Grove State Park
Campground 26kms
Had a relaxing morning in Dennis the trailer – gorgeous. Set off close to midday for Tamarisk Grove,
expecting a cruisy flattish road to Tamarisk Grove. Indeed it was a flat
looking road but certainly climbed steadily and found it a bit of a grind by
the time we arrived at the gorgeous campground at 3.30pm.
Called in earlier to the Ocotillo Wells Discovery centre
which had a live scorpion and tarantula – though Lucy and I saw tarantulas at
Joshua Tree. It was cool there – low key but really interesting anda nice
change from ATVs and OHV (off-highway vehicles) as the State Park is the
Ocotillo Wells Vehicle Recreation Area – and it was going off with off-roading.
Tamarisk Grove was so lovely – an oasis of shady Tamarisk
trees in the middle of the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Eric the ranger was
really nice and hardly anyone there. The traffic had been intense so it was
nice to get out of it.
Great to camp again and beautiful starry night. Roasted marshmallows on the fire.
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| Packing up to leave from Dennis |
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| 'Lucy' next door |
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| ATV! |
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| Anza Borrego State Park |
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| Tamarisk Grove campground |
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| Nightime |
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| Hugh and Lucy roasting marshmallows |
Thursday 2nd January
Tamarisk Grove Campground, Anza-Borrego State Park to Ramona
Canyon RV Park 60kms
A big day! We knew from Martin and Mike and Sherry that the
Banner Grade would be a test-piece. 4200 ft to Julian from our below zero
elevation at Salton Sea to 1400 ft at Tamarisk Grove. The grind began almost
immediately and we were pleased to get through most of the Canyon in the shade,
having left at 8.30am.
Arrived at the intersection with Highway S2 and then there
was a mammothly steephill to start with. Mike drove past and waved
enthusiastically which was encouraging as he was going to stop if we were in
trouble.
Had a bite to eat just below Banner and then to our surprise
arrived to a shop! There wasn’t much there but recharged on apple juice and
honey rolls and chocolate chip biscuits. Then tackled the grade! Indeed! It was
okay apart from a very steep part and it did seem to go on a bit nearing Julian
and up into the township. Lucy and I stopped on a very steep section and fell
off which was a total bummer as we were just a bit bruised but the right brake
cable had completely severed!
Carried on and we were elated to get to Julian about 2pm.
Went straight through the crowds to the Julian Apple Pie Co. and had the most
delicious apple pies – some with boysenberry, some with caramel and some
traditional plain with vanilla icecream. Really restorative.
Then decided to go on to Ramona since it was early and there
were bike shops there. Began the descent but to my dismay the back brake (the
only brake) didn’t seem to be going great and I suspected they were overheating
so I pulled over and walked some of the way and John worked on them several
times,eventually swapping over the left and right brake pads. We swapped bikes
and enjoyed biking with Hugh for a change. Time-consuming so arrived down near
Ramona towards 5pm ans saw a lovely looking RV park so called in to see if they
took tents – and they did! Wonderful to get camped there and to find a huge
clubhouse all to ourselves, with games and miniature golf and even a Christmas
tree. Heated and cosy and we ate dinner there and the children had a long
concert. Ecstatic to be over the Banner Grade but worried about the brakes for
the descent into San Diego.
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| Leaving Tamarisk Grove |
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| Riding up through the first canyon |
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| Typical desert plant life |
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| The road up to Banner |
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| A welcome break at the small Banner shop |
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| The Banner Grade!! |
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| The famous Julian Pies - hard earned at 4200 feet |
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| Main street, Julian |
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| Green appearing on descent to Ramona |
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| Hugh |
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| Having fun in the Ramona Canyon RV Park Clubhouse |
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| Hugh at Ramona Canyon RV Park |
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| Getting some brake assistance at AutoWorks, Ramona |
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| Hills out of Ramona |
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| Rock face |
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| Looking towards San Diego |
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| Hugh and Lucy |
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| John doing brake maintenance on the side of the road during steep descent into Poway |
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| Retreating to Starbucks near Old Town at end of the day |
Friday 3rd January
Ramona Canyon RV Park to Padre Trail America’s Best Value
Inn, San Diego 66kms
Packed up and left Ramona at 9.30am. John rode the red bike
and I rode with Hugh. Went to two bike shops and a KTM motorcycle shop in
Ramona to try to get a part for the brake but had no luck with that. Had a
fabulous brunch of eggs and pancakes and lots of coffee at the Ramona Café and
continued gingerly on down the hill towards San Diego. The issue was that it
wasn’t all downhill! Ended up being two massive hills – one out of Ramona and
one into San Diego from Poway. We rode
for six hours without a break. Exhausted and out of energy. Nine days in a row
took its toll and the roads just didn’t seem to come and what downhills there
were were stressful because of the one functioning brake overheating. Beautiful
but testing and some big busy roads heading into the city. Exhausted when we
arrived into Morena and all desperate for the toilet so stoppedat Starbucks to
re-orientate just on dark.
Soon found we were only half a mile from the hotel so got
there, had a nice shower and went across the road to an amazing place – Fiesta
del Reyes – for dinner. Wonderful Mexican food, outdoor fires, great service
and nice cold drinks – great.
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| Catching the trolley bus on our first morning in San Diego |
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