Taiwan - Taroko Gorge

16^th January   East Coast Hotel, Hualien – Taroko Inn, Xingcheng   24kms

Very easy day but just as well as woke up to a huge wind and it intensified at Qixingtan Beach where we could barely stand up. Grey and rather cold and blustery day. Grateful to be having a short day. Met some Canadians at breakfast and had a good chat with them before packing up and leaving our bikes and our stuff there while we went to the A Zone Arts precinct and did a bit of shopping for Lucy’s birthday. Back to our hotel and left about 1pm after some bread and croissants for lunch.

Biked up and out to Qixingtan Beach – phenomenally windy there and took our breath away.  Also huge fighter jets leaving from an air force base en route to Qixingtan so totally a bit shell-shocked by the time we stopped at the beach. Expected terrible wind after that but the cycleway ended and the road went into quite sheltered forest which was very welcome. 

Made quick progress to Taroko/ Xingsheng  and circumnavigated the township before going to our hotel – which was a bit tricky to find. Sort of brand new in the middle of nowhere. Great to get there and have a nice welcome coffee. Had to go back into town for 7-11 dinner later as nothing much else open there.

17^th January – Taroko Gorge – Lucy’s birthday  46kms

Celebrated Lucy’s birthday. Had breakfast and she opened her daschund chopstick kit and Hugh’s selfie stick and $1000 from us – NTD! Left the hotel just after 9am. Got some supplies for lunch and began the climb up to the gorge in earnest. Easy going at first and then into dramatic and gob-smacking scenery.

Went through the Tunnel of Nine Turns, Swallow Grotto, endless bridges and tunnels, the township of Tianshiang, the Baiyang Trail, the Water Curtain Cave – all truly amazing. We had lunch a bit before the main township sitting by a rest stop. Walked right up the Pagoda at Tianshang and had a coffee outside the 7-11. Met a guy outside also biking and he helpfully recommended continuing on to the Baiyang Trail – which we did even though it was getting later.

The Baiyang Trail was 2kms each way, starting in a dark tunnel. Motored along the track walking fast and were soon at the swing bridge. Lucy and I braved the Water Curtain Cave – drenched but happy! It was cool. Had a wonderful, fast walk back but did stop to see some monkeys in the bush just to the side of the track. Hugh was very upset to see some tourists feeding the monkeys.

Back on the bikes and began a stupendous and fast descent for 23kms. It was amazing. Not much traffic and really spectacular ride. Detoured at the end to the Eternal Spring Shrine – all very cool. Hope to go back one day. Hit town again just on dark. A bit disappointing not to have a restaurant to go to on Lucy’s birthday but great to get back to the hotel after such a great day.  Had a beer and some chips to celebrate.

Biked back into the 7-11 in the dark and ate microwaved pasta and icecreams. A bit of trepidation about the train ride the next day but totally satisfied with the wonderful day we had.