12th January
Mido Hotel, Taitung – Tsuen
Feng, Guanshan 50kms
Departed after breakfast and went out to the Forest Park and
Flowing Lake before heading into the East Rift valley. Stopped at a 7-11 after
the first 10kms or so. Had an amazing ride up through the first part of the
valley – the sun came out but we were in a Green Tunnel – leafy corridor of
shade for about 4 or 5kms. Climbed steadily and meltdown in the heat and
humidity – super hot and sweaty ride.
Carried on up and over the hill to the Luye
Highlands and on to Luye Village. Just as we were descending from the climb up
to the Highlands, a young guy came out of the Luminous Spa and resort and said
that his family would like to invite us in for a rest and a drink! We were
overwhelmed and humbled by this kind gesture. Sat in a wonderful recreation
room and had lovely apple and rosella (local) juice. It was truly a great rest
and lovely lovely place. Then we said our farewells and had lots of photos
outside with the guy. It was lovely and a true random act of kindness and connection.
Carried on our way and had a rest when we got into Luye
township further on and had lunch there – 7-11 hotdogs! Then on to Guanshan
Township and through it to our homestay in the wee village 3kms out. Met the
lady who was lovely and settled in. Also met Ah-Noah the dog who was very cute.
Had beer and chips which were great and then biked down a great cycleway in the
near-dark with the sound of frogs all around and had dinner at a great
restaurant where Hugh had pizza and I had pasta and donburri. Biked back in the
dark and listened to some music on the computer and relaxed.
Left our accommodation after breakfast which was organic homemade peas, spicy pork, cabbage, rice and coffee. The lady placed John at the head of the table and served us which was nice but a not what we are used to. Said goodbye to Ah-Noah the puppy and headed off on the Guanshan cycleway – only to bike around in a loop back to the township so had to backtrack and exit. Overcast but still quite hot.
Made it up to Chishang – quite steady climb – and found Mr Brown Avenue! Crazy place. Tourist explosion there but wonderful vistas and colours with the padi fields. Big ride around with lots of photo stops. Very amazing. Very famous Taiwanese landmark.
Later had lunch at the 7-11 in Chisang township and then quite a lot of climbing after that – steady. Soon we found a cycleway that we jumped onto 10kms out of Yuli and it was absolutely fabulous. Crossed a huge bridge at the end and halfway across there was a monument showing that we were on the faultline separating the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian Plate! Amazing. Arrived to the KET Hotel right on 4pm and it was great and we relaxed. Even had our first glass of wine from the Px Mart! Went to a small boutique restaurant for dinner and ended up having black bun burgers, pink mushroom soup, fruit entrée and blueberry tea. Not quite what we were expecting but had a good time and looked around Yuli on our return to the hotel. Small village really.
14th January
KET Hotel, Yuli - Sapientia
Guesthouse, Guangfu 56kms
The markets were busy as we left Yuli with lots of fresh
chickens and fish and vegetables on the street. Climbed steadily upon leaving
Yuli but a huge climb to 246m took us to the top of a hill where we stopped at
a tea house and had tea tasting at what they reported was the number one tea
house in Taiwan. Lucy and Hugh dutifully tasted the tea, with the lady
refilling their cup-bowls as quickly as they could drink it. We loved it and
even bought a big box of tea there. So cool to see the tea growing right there
on top of the hill. Coffee as well.
Great descent down the hill to the Tropic of Cancer monument
and kept descending right down to near Ruisui where we had a welcome lunch stop
at the 7-11. Went all the way into Guangfu – all downhill and a great ride –
where we visited the Hualien Sugar Company grounds with hundreds of other
tourists. Icecreams galore and had one overlooking the goldfish and turtle
ponds. Great day’s cycling and in fact the whole East Rift Valley was a treat.
Headed to Sapientia Guesthouse about 4.30pm and it was so
beautiful and the lady was lovely and later her husband made us a delicious
coffee in the reception area which was very cool. It was a beautiful, peaceful
place and I loved it there. The kids bonded with Momo the dog and its friend.
Stressful dark ride into town for tea with quite ferocious
barking dogs (most chained) and lots of loud frogs and some bats flying by the solitary
streetlight before we reached the main road. I was uncomfortable about coming
back home! Had dinner at the 7-11 – tiring of that a little – and then back
home through the frogs, bats and barking ferocious dogs. Slept soundly.
15th January Sapientia Guesthouse, Guangfu – East Coast Hotel, Hualien 50kms
Absolutely beautiful day and glorious sitting on the deck and having our beautifully prepared and presented breakfast overlooking the lily ponds. Tomato salad, fruit, pumpkin soup, chicken tortillas and tea. Amazing. Such a lovely place. Said our goodbyes and took photos. A bit sad to be leaving the Rift valley and embarking on the next and last stage of the trip.
Stopped in Fenglin at the 7-11 for coffee and then biked through up the valley and then, finally, down. There were a few big valleys to climb up and round first. Big descent to Hualien. Stopped at Pine Tree Lake café in Jian township and had cake and coffee which was lovely and then negotiated the busy traffic and streets of Hualien – crazy and a bit stressful after many days without big cities.
Found the East coast Hotel which was good and went for a big walk to but railway tickets for our trip from Taroko to Su’au – all sources advising not to bike the section from Hualien to Yilan. Hualien Railway Station is a gob-smacking building in the shape of coconut palms – absolutely stunning and we got our tickets with little fuss. Returned to the hotel and relaxed before going out for tea across the road. It turned out to be – once again – hotpot! Fun but not always easy to know what you are eating. Enjoyed it anyway.
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