18th January
Taroko Inn-Xincheng Taroko Station 3kms Su’ao Station – Pokara Resort, Yilan 29kms
We were given bacon and eggs for breakfast at the Taroko Inn
– it was much quieter than the previous day and I think the lady was trying to look
after us. Left the inn at 9.30am and went to the Xincheng Taroko Train Station.
Sat at the train station about an hour – very relaxed and looking forward to
the trip!
All looking good until 10 minutes before the train when the
other officials appeared and said that the bikes were too long to go on the train.
Usual stress – but we hadn’t expected it. Waited around and getting closer and
closer to the departure time and finally another plain clothes man and the
original young girl told us to go through. Very grateful to them.
Harder than expected on the train with no luggage area and
lots of people! Talked to an Australian and another cyclist who pointed out an
older woman in the carriage who had been a competitive cyclist and was very
famous. Got to Su’ao about an hour and a
quarter later and off train! Yay!
Spoke with a woman at the station and then departed, soon
finding a cycleway off the road which lead us straight to an intersection and a
85 degree coffee shop with a 7-11 across the road. Ideal! Had special cake
since hadn’t had birthday cake for Lucy and totally relaxed and de-stressed.
Good feeling to have the train out of the way.
Back on the cycleway and then found another one – the Dongshan
River Trail – which lead us straight to the coast. Easy biking, easy to find, gorgeous
weather, great bridges and river. Then emerged onto Highway 2 near the coast
and powered along on flat terrain to Pokara Resort – which was a detour through
rice paddies – very unique and gorgeous.
Found the resort – very lovely with a restful afternoon tea
and gorgeous room. Later googled the nearest restaurant and biked in the dark
to it about 3kms. Got there to find live giant crabs, turtle and fish in the
tank and then just lobster, shrimps, prawns, cockles and big fish, what looked
like sea slugs in the display tray. Ordered off a picture-less menu in Chinese
and on the nod of the lady in charge and got hotpot . Challenging but great –
cockles, octopus, all sorts. Beer as well which we swilled down with it. Great.
Very memorable.
Biked back in the dark along the narrow paddy field roads to
the resort. Watched ‘Adrift’ which was great and very relaxing in our room.
Wonderful day (apart from the initial train bit!).
19th January
Pokara Resort, Yilan – Being Outdoors, Fulong Beach – Caoling Tunnel – Fulong Beach 57kms
Got away after a lovely breakfast at the resort. Perfect gorgeous weather and soon came to the first fishing port – Gengfang Harbour - with squid and shrimp boats with great lamps and booms- very beautiful and blue blue clear skies and sunshine. Great coastal cycleways and biked on and off them along Highway 2 most of the day. Exhorbitant $12 coffees so carried on to the 7-11 where we reunited with our Taiwanese cyclist from the train. Had a chat and crossed paths up the coast for a while.
Went right around the coast to Fulong Beach – spectacular views of Turtle Island all day. A few detours of the cycleway down and up out of fishing villages. Quite steep and crazy in parts! Got in, found ‘Being Outdoors’ and had a snack at the 7-11 before biking out to the Historic Old Caoling Tunnel – amazing – more than 2kms in length and bikes only. Emerged back on the coast where we had been earlier –packed with people and some quality jazz busking. Beautiful views of the island again.
Biked back through the tunnel and into town. Had vegan pizza for dinner by mistake but not a great choice after walking down the beach and then to a burger place which turned off its lights just as we arrived! Only one day to go …. Exciting but also sad to end.
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